Thursday 19 March 2009

Kuala Lumpur

We arrived at 5am in the morning having hardly slept on the night bus so we were a little tired and grouchy but straight away we liked KL. The mono rail was cool, it was easy to get around and there was food everywhere!

We had a lot of admin to do in KL, so it was good that there weren't that many sights as we wouldn't have got round to seeing them, especially as I spent two days in bed with a stomach bug. When we were out and about Tim worked out how we could move around the city through malls so we could spend most of our time in air con!

We caught up with Paul who is working in KL and were treated to a night of luxury - thank you Paul! We saw another side of the city that night, the side where people have money, and it's definitely a place I'd come back to with a bigger purse.


The Twin Towers

Paul's suite at the Hilton. It was MASSIVE!

nothing like some street food
choose your fish... dead or alive!

barbeque chicken......yum!

Perhentian Kechil

We were going to go to the Cameron Highlands for a couple of days after Penang, but as everyone we met said we must visit the Prehentians it wasn't a hard choice to skip the countryside and lie on a beach instead!

We decided to go to the 'small island' and chose Coral Beach rather than Long Beach. After an 8 hour bus ride, one hour taxi ride and 30min speed boat ride it really was like stepping into paradise when we finally reached the island. The island is pretty small with just a scattering of restaurants and accommodation on both sides so it's a great little get away.

We had two days of great weather and then it rained, and rained and rained. We woke up on the third day and it was still grey so we decided to leave the beach a little early and head for KL.



View from the front of our accommodation
Just chillin'
Hardly anyone was on Coral beach, as you can see!
A huge coconut fell from the tree just missing us on Friday 13th!

Coral Beach

The sea was like a giant bath on this side of the island as it was so calm and quite warm

We can never tire of a good sunset

And then the rain came and didnt stop for two days

On the boat trip back we were stopped by the sea police as we didnt have life jackets on

Penang

After Indonesia, Malaysia felt like another world. It was cleaner, more modern, less congested and generally less hectic. We weren't hassled the whole time to buy DVDs or sunglasses and we weren't even hounded by taxi men at the airport!

We were lucky enough to stay in Hotel Lau in Penang and meet up with Yong (Fiona's cousin) and his wife Wei Wei who showed us around and introduced us to the culinary delights of Penang, of which there are many! All there is to do in the city is eat. Malay, India and Chinese food is everywhere, every other outlet is a restaurant or food stall, and all of it is soooooo good! Needless to say we had a great time eating our way round the city!

View from Fiona's parents flat on the 17th floor

Steamy kitchen in China Town that served us vast bowls of noodle soup
The biggest incense sticks in the world


Yong and Wei Wei our lovely hosts


The most amazing bowl of sweetness called 'thng yuan' - a sweet ginger soup with balls of pink and white dough filled with a peanut paste. You can choose to have white sugar or brown sugar in your 'soup'.

Sunday 8 March 2009

Bukit Lawang, Sumatra - The Jungle

After days of not doing much we decided we needed to be a little more active. So we got flights to Medan from where we could travel to the jungle to see Orangutans.

Medan is a bit of a hell hole but we found our first large scale Indonesian supermarket so we had plenty to amuse ourselves with, namely biscuits and sweets at crazy prices. Everything was about 3p so we brought LOADS! It was raining when we finally emerged from the shoppping centre so we sat on the steps and munched our way through our purchases. We got quite a few strange looks from the locals but we were in sugar heaven and didnt care!


The next morning we jumped into the local mode of transport - a motor bike with a small seat on wheels attached to it. We somehow managed to get to the bus station even with Tim half hanging off the seat. The bus ride was long and hot but eventually we made it to Bukit Lawang. It was a total contrast to Medan - there was a chorus of animals nosies instead of beeping horns, the air was fresh rather than smoggy - we were in THE jungle, rather than a concrete jungle.

Suddenly we could see why people came here just to chill, the whole village was set along a flowing river with the jungle behind. You were practically living in the jungle but with the comforts of nice guest houses and resturants. It was a pretty long trek with the bags to the nicer guest houses but it was worth it when we ended up with a great room with a unique two storey outside bathroom at Green Hill. As we checked in we were greeted by a load of monkeys and that well known jungle creature, the tabby cat.

We went for dinner down the road and saw a huge lizard, the size of a baby aligator and then we were entertained by a little brown monkey trying to steal the resturant's vegetables. Jungle life was fun.

We signed up for a day trek in the jungle so the next day we were out the door at 8.30am with our two guides. I was a little aprehensive about the trek as I thought i was going to be eaten alive by mossies, I should have been worried about how hard core it was going to be!

The first couple of hours were great, the track was quite easy to follow and it wasnt too strenuous. Our guide Amin had followed Orangutans for a year in the jungle as an observer so knew his jungle stuff and pointed out rubber tress, natural coffee and mango plants. We also got to taste Quinine from the bark of a cinchona tree. Quinine was the first effective treatment for malaria. It was so bitter I had to eat an orange to get rid of the taste!

We got to a little clearing and were told we had a choice, the short route or the long route. The long route took us deep into the jungle and gave us more chance of seeing wild orangutans. I found the idea of the short route more appealing but Tim was up for a challenge so we went for the long route. It was VERY long and VERY hard! We basically did a two day trek in one day! I have never sweated so much through heat and fear! Most of the time we were walking along a thin, slippery path which had a deep drop to the side, one foot wrong and we would have been tumbling down through thick forest.

The 'path' (there wasnt really any path I have no idea how Amin knew where he was going) was mainly uphill for the first 3 hours. I was using branches and roots to pull me up. We were swinging from branches and using roots to absail down steep drops, we were turning into right little monkeys! At one point I brushed against a tree and got a whole colony of termites on me - nice! Eventually we made it to a steam. We took our shoes off and with the help of sticks made it over the slippery rocks. Tim and I both fell over but we were happy just to be able to cool off in the water and have a break and some lunch.

Feeling much revived after friend rice and loads of fruit we were told we had another 4 hours at least of treking. So it was back into it straight away with a harsh half hour uphill hike. Then it was down hill which was actually more difficult as it was so slippery. We all slided and slipped about and it was starting to turn into a mission to get back alive rather than a mission for Orangutans!

Despite all our efforts and going deep into the jungle we hadn't actually seen any animals apart from insects! We had heard gibbons, smelt Orangutans, seen Honey Bear tracks and heared Horn Bills, but no sightings. Finally after eight hours of treking we saw our first jungle creature...a tortoise!!!

Amin decided we would go to the feeding platform as sometimes Orangutans hang out there after feeding hours. Luckily we did as we saw a wild Orangutan and a semi wild Orangutan. Hurrah! We watched the orange ones in their natural habitat for a while and then started the final leg of our journey home. By this point I was really tired and didnt trust my legs to actually keep me up, even Tim was looking pretty tired. We cleared the forest and got to the main river and then we had to wade through the river to get to the other side! My legs were shaking, I was filthy, Tim and I both had cuts and bruises but we had made it back and we had certainly had a jungle experience!

Our guide Amin showed us how locals got rubber from the rubber trees
Guys walking past with the rubber they had collected from the trees. The rubber absolutely stank! It was enough to make you want to gag.

Big tree and our first little break

The black lump on the tree is a termites nest
Going down into the depths of the jungle
Ha, this photo makes me laugh! I look like an old woman with that bun and stick! (I totally felt like an old woman the next day I could hardly walk as my legs were so sore from all the trekking!)
Going back up, before we went down again and up again and down again and up again....
Our first jungle animal, that scary creature the jungle tortoise!
Jungle view
I'm smiling as I've just been told we only have about another 30mins until we reach the Feeding Platform and then the nightmare would nearly be over!
A wild Orangutan
A semi wild Orangutan called Sophia
There she is again
Monkeying about

Just hanging out

Waterfall

The final leg of our trek - we had to wade through the past flowing river to get to our accommodation. I was totally knackered by this point and kept slipping over so Amin give me his trainers to wear in the water and helped me across. The current was pretty strong in parts so Tim also got a helping hand

This spider was HUGE. It doesnt really look it in this picture but I have never seen a spider so big before it was bigger than the palm of my hand and I swear it had fangs. It came out every night to say hello in our bathroom and would hover just above the toilet.

The long journey back to Kuta

The journey back to Kuta was a long one. We left Gili T at 8.30am and got the short boat crossing to the mainland. I spent the entire 45 minute boat ride watching an ant make it's way back and forth over my backpack. I think I have too much time on my hands!

Once over the other side we walked to the 'bus station', which was actually someone's home but there was loads of parking space, and waited for the other travellers to get there so we could head off. As usual whenever you sit down with a few minutes to spare you are surrounded by people wanting to sell you necklaces, tattoos or more useful water and snacks. People ask 'Mister, Miss where are you from?' And as soon as we say 'England' we get a load of footballers names thrown at us.. "Micheal Owen, David Beckham..." and the ocassional "Lovely Jubbley". Its all very amusing the first time, but when you've heard it about 20 times it's not so funny.

After a bus ride we were back on the ferry. This time it took about 4.5 hours. After the boat ride it was another bus ride. I was squashed onto a seat with two other blokes whilst Tim had the luxury of a whole seat to himself in the front, so I literally had about 1/4 of my arse on the seat, then one of them kept falling asleep on me. It was the most uncomfortable 1.5 hours I've ever spent!

Finally we arrived in Kuta after 10 hours of travel. We found a room, dumped our stuff and went out to eat. Kuta is a crazy place full of traffic and Austrailians. But we decided to spend two days there just to get stuff like internet done cause everything is so cheap there.

I got a 1 hour full body massage for 2 pounds! It was great until the lady hit me on the bottom of my feet with a stick. Not sure what that was all about but it hurt a bit and I was worried my head was going to get the same treatment, luckily I just got her soothing hands!



Scenic walk to the bus station


Paddy fields

The memorial for all the people that lost their lives in the Bali bombing. Seeing all the names listed really made you think about the lives lost and the devastation caused
Kuta at night

Gili Trawangan, Lombok

A bus ride, and short boat ride later we had landed on Gili T. It was much smaller than Sengigi but had more of a party atmoshere about it. In the boiling heat we started checking out places to stay, we were looking for somewhere decent as we wanted to send about 10 days on the island. After 5 days of 'roughing' it we were going to splash out and actually spend over 5 pounds on a room!

After much sweating and haggling we found what we were looking for at Snapper Bungalows, which happended to be behind a fish 'n' chips shop! The room was new, huge and had air con and a DVD player - much needed distraction when the bad weather kicked in - we also had access to the Beach House Pool, which happened to be one of the nicest pools on the island and a yummy breakfast each day. All this for only 10 pounds a night!!!!

We spent the next ten days lazing by the pool, going for sunset walks, watching botleg DVDs (we got through 16, the weather was pretty bad!) and eating!

I was loving all the rice dishes, which was handy as that is the cheapest thing to eat in Indonesia, other than noodles, but after about 7 days of pure Indonesia food I started getting cravings for Western food and that's when I found the best sandwich i'd eaten in 8 months, the 'Triple Decker" - basically a club sandwich - which was so good Tim and I went back again and again to 'The Living Room" to sample it!

It's amazing how quickly time flies when you are doing nothing, before we knew it we were back on a boat and heading for Kuta, Bali...


View of Gili Air from Gili T

There are no cars on Gili T so the only way to get about is on foot, by bicycle or in one of the above

Gili T has loads of deserted white sand beaches

The pool we had access to each day

Little garden just outside our room

Saturday 7 March 2009

Lombok - Sengigi

Sengigi is the biggest tourist spot on Lombok but when we were there it was pretty empty so we had the huge stretch of beach to ourselves each day which was bliss. The only down side of being one of the few tourist there was the constant hassle we got from the locals trying to sell us anything and everything. But after we'd been there a couple of days and they realised they weren't going to get anything out of us they pretty much left us alone.

We were staying in cheap accommodation near a mosque so 4 times a day we heard the call to prayer. I quite liked it at first, made you think about where you were, but after being woken each night by it we were starting to crave a decent nights sleep. So after three days we decided to head for the Gili Islands.


We got to see some amazing sunsets whilst in Sengigi

We had this huge beach to ourselves!

This 'shack' served up great, cheap food. It was the busiest place in Sengigi

More sunset drinks