Cotopaxi is considered one of the world's highest active volcanoes and at 5897m it`s Ecuador's second highest mountain. Tim and I decided we´d have a go climbing it! ...I swear you start to believe that anything is possible when you´re traveling!
The tour operator assured us you mainly walked up at a 30 degree angle, so it `wasn't hard´. Phew, this should be fine i thought...When we started getting our ice picks, harness, snow boots and clamp-ons I started to have a few doubts. Then I heard you started the trek up Cotopaxi at 1am - Tim had just read Ranulf Fiennes autobiography so I think he was living the book - I on the other hand had just realised what we had got ourselves into.
The drive to Cotopaxi was pretty uneventful, couldnt actually see much as the weather was bad. We parked the van at the Refuge which was at 4,500m and climbed up to 4,800. It took about an hour and my legs were jelly afterwards. How was i going to climb Cotopaxi?!
It was totally freezing at the refuge. I had three layers of clothes on, a fleece, a wind breaker jacket, thermal trousers, waterproof trousers, scarf, hat, two pairs of gloves and I was still cold. After having some soup for lunch the only option was to get into the sleeping bag and try and get warm whilst we waited for dinner. 9 of us were sleeping in bunk beds in a tiny dorm, at least we provided each other with some warmth! Dinner was soup, pasta and chicken. I ate as much as I could - I knew i was going to need the engery!
At about 7.30pm we all went to bed. I couldn´t sleep, my heart was racing and I felt like there was huge pressure on my lungs. I also had a bit of a dodgy belly (something else altitude does to you apparently). At midnight our guides came and got us up for ´breakfast´and then it was time to put on all the gear (I was wearing most of mine in ded so it didnt take too long!) but my jacket zip had broken on the way up so i had to be taped into my jacket, all this meant that Tim and I were the last to leave the refuge at about 1.30am.
The next few hours were hard. Not just the physical climb (it was easily 45 degrees plus, never believe tour operators!) and dealing with the snow and the darkness but the altitude. After about three hours I couldn´t control my breathing and was unsteady on my feet, I just couldnt get my breath back and was starting to feel sick and dizzy. We were about 5,500 feet but about 3 more hours from the top. The guide told me i had to listen to my body...it was screaming ´get me off this mountain´so we turned back. It was getting really cold and I couldnt go fast enough to make it safe for us. I felt so disappointed we werent going to reach the top. But also a little comforted by the fact that three other couples had already turned back, at least we weren´t the only ones not to make it!
During the descent both Tim and my head lights went. The guide had to walk next to us instead of following the rope line which was all a little dangerous but we didnt really think about it as the sun was starting to rise and it really was a breathtaking view and made the whole experience worth it. We arrived back at camp at about 6.30am. It was a shame we didnt reach the top but it was an unforgetable experience... in so many ways! I am totally amazed I gave it a shot, not really thinking too much about what I was getting myself into before we booked it definitely helped!
Before setting off, check out the gear!
Jude taking a little rest
The sun started coming up at about 5am
In the top right corner you can just see our trail
Me sporting a very attractive look
Thursday, 14 August 2008
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